AFTERNOON DRESS, SILK- FRENCH (C.1865-67)
A Paris made bright blue silk three piece costume appropriate
for afternoon visits. Probably would have had a matching ball
bodice for evening wear.
BODICE: The bodice is decorated with matching silk braid
and a greenish color silk fringe and tassels. Bodice and sleeves
are lined in glazed cotton. It is boned front and sides with a
front 9 buttoned closure (matching silk thread buttons).
Peplum band has a label:
ENGLISCH SPOKEN Mme. _ _ ATUEL (maybe EMATUEL??)
ROBES & CONFECTIONS 11 AVENUE _____GNON CHAMPS ELYSE
Lace around neckline is slightly frayed.
The 3 rows of silk braid on cuffs show slight wear (the white
buckram underneath shows through where the silk was rubbed from
wear). Silk ribbon waistband is slightly damaged at center
closure. The buttons show signs of being moved one inch to
enlarge bodice. Waist 22 inches. Bust 35 inches.
Blue silk ribbon belt with two 25 inch long
decorative panels with blue silk, silk braid, ruched silk
ribbon, silk tassels and fringe. Belt 24 inches.
The long trained skirt is unlined with the hemline
backed with a 12 inch wide stiff fabric (buckram?). Most of
the gathers of the skirt are to the back as was the fashion
of this time. Silk watch pocket and cotton side pocket.
Center front length 40 inches. Center back length 62 inches.
Width all around hem 200 inches. "... the greatest circumference
the skirt achieved during the nineteenth century, reached
between 1865 and 1867."
Evidence of being worn often is seen at the hemline edge where the crease of the silk fabric has split from rubbing on the ground.
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